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The Truth About Coilovers

10K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  _FUBAR_  
#1 · (Edited)
I had to do more searching on the all around purpose of coil overs because I want to do it right the first time and not damage my car. I came across this. Some may not agree, but I think it has a lot of truth and sounds reasonable. This as a sticky would be nice for those oblivious to aftermarket suspension, more specifically coil overs. Let me know what you guys think. It's an article I found that sounded pretty sensible, but it may be wrong. Just wanted to see if this has any truth at all.

The Truth About Coilovers

Why are they so popular and do they really improve the handling of a car. In theory, when you lower your car, you also lower it center of gravity therefore reducing body roll, thus improving its handling. However, handling characteristic of the car are not only determined by the center of gravity. You also have to consider the dampening system, spring rate, condition of the road, side-walls of your tires, unsprung weight, tire grip, geometry of the suspension and so on.

Right now we are only interested in the ever so popular coilover set up. There are a lot of aftermarket manufacturers coming up with different brands and types of coilovers. Coilovers are popular with racers due to their adjustability. You can adjust the right height and in some cases you can also adjust the dampening thus produce superb handling.

There are two types of coilovers. They are true coilovers and sleeve type coilovers. True coilovers are a set up where the shocks have a threaded-body, when as the other one utilize a 'sleeve type' thread. One of the older, well-known manufacturer for coilovers is H&R. Now, there are different companies such as Tein, Intrax, etc also making coilovers. However, Ground Control was the pioneer of sleeve designed coilovers. We have no doubt about the benefits of true coilovers. But what about the sleeve type'? Does it work? In theory, it works the same as true coilovers. In real life, it doesn't even come close to the non coilovers shocks and springs setups.

Ground Control, the pioneer in sleeve design technology' utilizes aluminum body sleeve with Eibach race springs. The base of the spring is supported with a single rotational plate with an Allen screw-locking device. What's wrong with this design you ask? Like all 'sleeve type' coilovers, there is good chance for the sleeve to rotate and thus make the spring slip. This can happen to the enthusiast drivers who like to push the car to the limit. The other thing that worries me is the Allen screw-locking device. A screw that small is given the duties to hold the tension and twist that are generated by the car when an enthusiast drives it.

Weapon-R Tuner 2 coilover conversion. This one is basically the same with Ground Control except it added the extra locking plate (with the same allen screw locking it in place) supposedly for added security.

Skunkworks and Arospeed. These two companies utilize true coilover type locking devices. Double plates interlocking each other. This is by far the best set up yet. But how bout the sleeve? Some thing must be done to secure the sleeve.

These disadvantages not only can create clunking noise, but it can also be very dangerous. Imagine this: you are taking corners very fast, relying on that big buck suspension to do it job, when the sleeve/locking plates shifted thus creating a sudden jolt in your suspension (like when your driving thru rough road surface) and therefore lifted your tire of the ground thus losing traction..........

So why is it so popular? Cause it cheap ($249-$399US) compare to true coilovers ($1,200US and up). It looks cool, it's adjustable, and again it makes your car look cool....

Drivers Beware

The proper way to adjust a threaded coil-over suspension involves using a set of scales. The whole idea of this type of suspension adjustability is to equal out the loads on tires (or bias them for circle track) for cornering ability. The fact that you can lower the car with them is just an added benefit but it is NOT their primary function. You should be aware that you can hurt the performance of your car if you don't adjust them at least reasonably close. At best, the car may not corner as well as it used to.

At worst, you may change the handling to the point of being dangerous. This sounds like an exageration but with a threaded setup you could load the front right and the left rear tires and create a car that turns left really well, but won't turn right worth a damn. Even, possibly, spinning out. All this with the car sitting perfectly level. You have the suspension, now take the time to set it up right. Find a tyre shop with some corner scales and work with them to adjust tire loading and ride height. The object is to get the cross weights (diagonal weights) even. It's not as important to get the other weights even. It's the cross weights that will sneak up on you.



Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/12461
 
#2 · (Edited)
its good info for those who think coils will improve handling. I knew from day one, once you lower a car so far it throws handling out the window. especially on vw's. when your a-ams look upsidedown it will handle poorly. you change the whole geometry of how the suspension was setup to work. it may feel like it handles better due to being lower to the ground and the stiffer spring rate. but that's just head games. I tell people all the time, when I had my cupkit. the car handled great. I was not afraid to push it into a corner and get the back wheel to dog leg. now I have to coast into corners or it feels like my wheels are going to fall off. its part of the game. moat of us who dump our cars don't care about going fast. I sure don't. I have a sport bike for the twisties. I agree with how to adjust the coils too. I've noticed that my driverside dips more and rubs alot more than the passenger side. I have my fronts set evenly to set my fender height at 23.5. but do to the extra weight on that side(me, battery, junk in my door LOL) im sure that's what causes it.
 
#3 ·
thanks fubar. yeah im going to return the racelands because even though i love the lowered look and stuff I like to drive fast on curves with safety being of importance. I will probably do some more research and build a suspension around my car so that performance and safety are accented lol I'm lookin to race around like an asshole but have a nice feel when round a corner or take a turn faster than the speed limit suggests XD Looks like a cupkit might be the way to go but ill do research and get the right springs and shocks to handle the the load.
 
#5 ·
yes.. we touched breifly on that before but you def went more in depth.

i go fast in straights.. again like fubar said.. if i feel the need to carve corners.. i get the bike out.

but.. B&G or H&R or the higher end FK's will allow you to adjust your dampening.. but theyre expensive as fuk
 
#7 ·
for me its about the look. just about a few hours ago I went to a local skatepark. I pulled in a lit the tires up due to a riced out neon srt4 just hanging out. he says "that thing can't even turn without the tires rubbing." I said "your damn right" then said "I could fist f$%& your wheel gap" his buddies got a laugh out if that and he soon left.
 
#9 ·
#12 ·
Oh ok. If i ever decide to save up enough for a kit i'll just have to decide if i want the sport one or the touring one. It just sucks that they cost a pretty penny.